Kuchengetwa kwezuva, uye kunyanya kudzivirira zuva, ndeimwe yezvikamu zvinokurumidza kukura zvemusika wekuchengeta munhu.Zvakare, dziviriro yeUV iko zvino yave kuiswa mune zvakawanda zvemazuva ese-zvizoro zvigadzirwa (semuenzaniso, zvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda rechiso uye zvekushongedza zvizoro), sezvo vatengi vanonyanya kuziva kuti kudiwa kwekuzvidzivirira kubva kuzuva hakushande chete kuzororo remahombekombe. .
Nhasi mugadziri wekuchengetedza zuvainofanirwa kuwana yakakwira SPF uye inonetsa UVA mazinga ekudzivirira, ukuwo uchigadzira zvigadzirwa zvakanakisa kukurudzira kuteedzera kwevatengi, uye zvinodhura-zvakakwana kuti zvigone kutengwa munguva dzakaoma dzehupfumi.
Efficacy uye kunaka zviri chokwadi zvinoenderana mumwe; kukwidziridza kushanda kwezvishandiso zvinoshandiswa zvinoita kuti zvigadzirwa zveSPF zvakakwirira zvigadzirwe zvine mazinga mashoma emafirita eUV. Izvi zvinobvumira mugadziri rusununguko rukuru rwekugadzirisa kunzwa kweganda. Sezvineiwo, yakanaka chigadzirwa aesthetics inokurudzira vatengi kuti vashandise zvimwe zvigadzirwa uye nekudaro vanoswedera kune yakanyorwa SPF.
Performance Attributes yekufunga nezvazvo kana uchisarudza UV mafirita ezvekuzora mafomati
• Chengetedzo kune chinangwa chekupedzisira-mushandisi boka- Ese mafirita eUV akaedzwa zvakanyanya kuti ave nechokwadi chekuti akachengeteka pachezvake kune topical application; zvisinei vamwe vanhu vane hunyanzvi vanogona kunge vaine allergic reactions kune mamwe marudzi emafirita eUV.
• SPF kushanda zvakanaka- Izvi zvinoenderana newavelength yehukuru hwekunyura, ukuru hwekunyura, uye hupamhi hwekunyudza spectrum.
• Broad spectrum / UVA kudzivirira kushanda zvakanaka-Maumbirwo emazuva ano ezuva anodiwa kuti asangane nemamwe maUVA ekudzivirira, asi chisingawanzo nyatso nzwisiswa ndechekuti kudzivirira kweUVA kunopawo mupiro kuSPF.
• Kufurira pakunzwa kweganda-Akasiyana UV mafirita ane akasiyana mhedzisiro pakunzwa kweganda; semuenzaniso mamwe mafirita eUV anogona kunzwa "kunamira" kana "kurema" paganda, nepo mafirita anonyungudika nemvura achipa kuoma kweganda.
• Kuonekwa paganda- Inorganic mafirita uye organic particulate inogona kukonzera kuchena paganda kana ichishandiswa pakakwirira; izvi kazhinji hazvidiwi, asi mune mamwe maapplication (eg. mwana kuchengetwa kwezuva) inogona kuvonekwa seyakanakira.
• Photostability-Anoverengeka organic UV mafirita anoora pakuratidzwa kune UV, nekudaro achidzikisa kushanda kwawo; asi mamwe masefa anogona kubatsira kudzikamisa aya "photo-labile" masefa uye kuderedza kana kudzivirira kuora.
• Kuramba mvura-Kusanganisirwa kwemvura-yakavakirwa UV mafirita padivi peoiri-yakavakirwa kazhinji inopa kusimudzira kwakakosha kuSPF, asi inogona kuita kuti zvinyanye kuoma kuwana kudzivirira-mvura.
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UV Sefa Chemistries
Zuva rezuva rinoshanda rinowanzorongerwa se organic sunscreens kana inorganic sunscreens. Organic sunscreens inobata zvakasimba pane chaiyo wavelengths uye inoonekera kune chiedza chinooneka. Inorganic sunscreens inoshanda nekuratidzira kana kuparadzira UV mwaranzi.
Ngatidzidze nezvavo zvakadzama:
Organic sunscreens
Organic sunscreens inozivikanwawo semakemikari sunscreens. Izvi zvinosanganisira organic (carbon-based) mamorekuru anoshanda semafuta ezuva nekutora UV mwaranzi nekuishandura kuita simba rekupisa.
Organic Sunscreens Strengths & Weaknesses
| Simba | Utera |
| Cosmetic elegance - mazhinji ma organic mafirita, angave zvinwiwa kana soluble solids, anosiya pasina chinooneka paganda mushure mekushandisa kubva mukuumbwa. | Narrow spectrum - mazhinji anongodzivirira pamusoro peyakatetepa wavelength renji |
| Traditional organics inonzwisiswa zvakanaka nevagadziri | "Cocktails" inodiwa kune yakakwirira SPF |
| Kushanda kwakanaka pazvishoma zvishoma | Mamwe marudzi akasimba anogona kuve akaoma kunyungudutsa uye kuchengetedza mune mhinduro |
| Mibvunzo pamusoro pekuchengetedza, kushatirwa uye kukanganisa kwezvakatipoteredza | |
| Mamwe ma organic mafirita ane mafoto-asina kugadzikana |
Organic sunscreens Applications
Organic mafirita anogona mumusimboti kushandiswa mune ese ekuchengetedza zuva / UV kuchengetedza zvigadzirwa asi anogona kunge asina kunaka mune zvigadzirwa zvevacheche kana ganda rinopfava nekuda kwekugona kweallergic reaction mune vanhu vane hanya. Izvo zvakare hazvina kukodzera kune zvigadzirwa zvinogadzira "zvakasikwa" kana "organic" zvirevo sezvo ese ari emakemikari ekugadzira.
Organic UV Mafirita: Makemikari marudzi
PABA (para-amino benzoic asidhi) kubva
• Muenzaniso: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA
• Masefa eUVB
• Kashoma kushandiswa mazuva ano nekuda kwekunetseka nezvekuchengetedzwa
Salicylates
• Mienzaniso: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate
• Masefa eUVB
• Mutengo wakaderera
• Kusashanda zvakanaka zvichienzaniswa nemamwe mafirita akawanda
Cinnamates
• Mienzaniso: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Iso-amyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene
• Masefa eUVB anoshanda zvakanyanya
• Octocrylene inogoneka uye inobatsira kudzikamisa mamwe mafirita eUV, asi mamwe macinnamate anowanzo kuve asina kunaka kutsetseka.
Benzophenones
• Mienzaniso: Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4
• Ipa zvose UVB uye UVA kutorwa
• Kushanda kwakaderera asi kubatsira kuwedzera SPF pamwe chete nemamwe mafirita
• Benzophenone-3 haisati yashandiswa muEurope mazuva ano nekuda kwekunetseka kwekuchengeteka
Triazine uye triazole derivatives
• Mienzaniso: Ethylhexyl triazone, bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
• Kubudirira zvikuru
• Mamwe mafirita eUVB, mamwe anopa dziviriro yeUVA/UVB yakakura
• Yakanaka kwazvo photostability
• Zvinodhura
Dibenzoyl derivatives
• Mienzaniso: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB)
• Inoshanda zvikuru UVA absorbers
• BMDM ine urombo photostability, asi DHHB zvikuru photostable
Benzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives
• Mienzaniso: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA), Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (DPDT)
• Mvura inonyungudika (kana yakasagadzikana negasi rakakodzera)
• PBSA is UVB sefa; DPDT iUVA sefa
• Kazhinji ratidza kuwirirana nemafuta-anonyungudika mafirita kana ashandiswa pamwe chete
Camphor derivatives
• Muenzaniso: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
• UVB sefa
• Kashoma kushandiswa mazuva ano nekuda kwekunetseka nezvekuchengetedzwa
Anthranilates
• Muenzaniso: Menthyl anthranilate
• Masefa eUVA
• Zvishoma kushanda zvakanaka
• Hazvibvumirwi muEurope
Polysilicone-15
• Silicone polymer ine chromophores mumaketani emativi
• UVB sefa
Inorganic sunscreens
Aya ma sunscreens anozivikanwawo semasikirwo ezuva. Izvi zvinosanganisira inorganic particles zvinoshanda semafuta ezuva nekutora nekuparadzira mwaranzi yeUV. Inorganic sunscreens inowanikwa kana sehupfu hwakaoma kana pre-dispersions.
Inorganic sunscreens Strengths & Weakness
| Simba | Utera |
| Yakachengeteka / isingatsamwire | Maonero ehurombo aesthetics (ganda uye kuchena paganda) |
| Broad spectrum | Hupfu hunogona kunetsa kugadzira nahwo |
| Yakakwira SPF (30+) inogona kuwanikwa ine imwechete inoshanda (TiO2) | Inorganics yakabatwa mune nano gakava |
| Dispersions zviri nyore kubatanidza | |
| Photostable |
Inorganic Sunscreens Applications
Inorganic sunscreens inokodzera chero maUV ekudzivirira maapplication kunze kweakajeka maumbirwo kana aerosol sprays. Ivo vakanyanya kukodzera kuchengetwa kwezuva kwevana, zvigadzirwa zveganda zvinotapukira, zvigadzirwa zvinogadzira "zvakasikwa" zvinoti, uye zvekushongedza zvizoro.
Inorganic UV mafirita Chemical Types
Titanium Dioxide
• Zvikurukuru sefa yeUVB, asi mamwe mamakisi anopawo dziviriro yakanaka yeUVA
• Magiredhi akasiyana-siyana anowanikwa ane masaizi akasiyana siyana, machira nezvimwe.
• Mazhinji mamakisi anowira munzvimbo ye nanoparticles
• Zvidiki-diki zvinopenya zvakanyanya paganda asi zvinopa zvishoma kudzivirira kweUVA; masaizi akakura anopa dziviriro yeUVA yakawanda asi iri kuchena paganda
Zinc oxide
• Kunyanya sefa yeUVA; yakaderera SPF kushanda pane TiO2, asi inopa chengetedzo iri nani pane TiO2 munzvimbo yakareba yewavelength "UVA-I" dunhu.
• Magiredhi akasiyana-siyana anowanikwa ane masaizi akasiyana siyana, machira nezvimwe.
• Mazhinji mamakisi anowira munzvimbo ye nanoparticles
Performance / Chemistry matrix
Mwero kubva -5 kusvika +5:
-5: yakakosha yakaipa maitiro | 0: hapana chakaitika | +5: yakakosha mhedzisiro
(Cherechedza: pamutengo uye kuchena, "negative effect" zvinoreva mutengo kana kuchena kunowedzerwa.)
| Mutengo | SPF | UVA | Skin Feel | Whitening | Mufananidzo-kugadzikana | Mvura | |
| Benzophenone-3 | -2 | +4 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| Benzophenone-4 | -2 | +2 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine | -4 | +5 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Butyl Methoxy-dibenzoylmethane | -2 | +2 | +5 | 0 | 0 | -5 | 0 |
| Diethylamino Hydroxy Benzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | -4 | +1 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone | -4 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| disodium Phenyl Dibenzimiazole Tetrasulfonate | -4 | +3 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA | -1 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate | -2 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -3 | +1 |
| Ethylhexyl salicylate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone | -3 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Homosalate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate | -3 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -2 | +1 |
| Methyl Anthranilate | -3 | +1 | +2 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor | -3 | +3 | 0 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol | -5 | +4 | +5 | -1 | -2 | +4 | -1 |
| Octocrylene | -3 | +3 | +1 | -2 | 0 | +5 | 0 |
| Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid | -2 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| Polysilicone-15 | -4 | +1 | 0 | +1 | 0 | +3 | +2 |
| Tris-biphenyl Triazine | -5 | +5 | +3 | -1 | -2 | +3 | -1 |
| Titanium Dioxide - giredhi rakajeka | -3 | +5 | +2 | -1 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Titanium Dioxide - yakakura spectrum giredhi | -3 | +5 | +4 | -2 | -3 | +4 | 0 |
| Zinc oxide | -3 | +2 | +4 | -2 | -1 | +4 | 0 |
Zvinhu Zvinokanganisa Kuita kweUV Filters
Maitiro etitanium dioxide uye zinc oxide anosiyana zvakanyanya zvichienderana nehunhu hwegiredhi rakashandiswa, semuenzaniso. kupfekedza, chimiro chemuviri (upfu, mafuta-based dispersion, mvura-based dispersion).Vashandisi vanofanirwa kubvunza nevatengesi vasati vasarudza giredhi rakakodzera kuti vasangane nezvinangwa zvavo zvekuita muhurongwa hwavo hwekugadzira.
Kushanda kwemafuta-soluble organic UV mafirita anokonzerwa nekunyungudika kwawo mune emollients anoshandiswa mukugadzira. Kazhinji, polar emollients ndiwo akanakisa zvinonyungudutsa zveorganic mafirita.
Kuita kwese mafirita eUV kunonyanya kukanganiswa nemaitiro erheological ekugadzirwa uye kugona kwayo kuumba firimu rakaenzana, rakabatana paganda. Kushandiswa kweakakodzera mafirimu-formers uye rheological additives kazhinji inobatsira kuvandudza kushanda kwemafirita.
Inonakidza Musanganiswa weUV mafirita (synergies)
Kune akawanda masanganiswa emafirita eUV anoratidza kuwirirana. Iwo akanakisa synergistic mhedzisiro anowanzo kuwanikwa nekubatanidza mafirita anopindirana neimwe nzira, semuenzaniso: -
• Kubatanidza mafirita anonyungudika (kana akaparadzirwa mafuta) ane mafirita anonyungudika nemvura (kana akaparadzirwa mvura)
• Kubatanidza mafirita eUVA nemasefa eUVB
• Kubatanidza mafirita asingagadziki nemasefa ehupenyu
Kune zvakare mamwe masanganiswa anogona kuburitsa mamwe mabhenefiti, semuenzaniso zvinozivikanwa kuti octocrylene inobatsira kudzikamisa mafoto-e-labile mafirita akadai sebutyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
Nekudaro munhu anofanirwa kugara achifunga nezvehungwaru pfuma munzvimbo iyi. Kune akawanda patents anovhara mamwe masanganiswa emafirita eUV uye vagadziri vanorairwa kuti vagare vachitarisa kuti musanganiswa wavanoda kushandisa haukanganise chero echitatu-bato patent.
Sarudza iyo Right UV sefa yeCosmetic Formulation yako
Matanho anotevera achakubatsira iwe kusarudza iyo chaiyo UV sefa (s) yekushongedza yako yekugadzira:
1. Rondedzera zvinangwa zvakajeka zvekuita, aesthetic zvivakwa uye zvakanangwa zvichemo zvekugadzira.
2. Tarisa kuti ndeapi masefa anotenderwa kumusika unodiwa.
3. Kana uine chassis chaiyo yekugadzira yaunoda kushandisa, funga kuti ndeapi masefa anokwana nechassis iyoyo. Zvisinei kana zvichibvira zviri nani kusarudza mafirita kutanga uye kugadzira kuumbwa kwakapoteredza. Izvi zvinonyanya kuitika kune inorganic kana particulate organic mafirita.
4. Shandisa mazano kubva kune vatengesi uye/kana maturusi ekufanotaura seBASF Sunscreen Simulator kuona misanganiswa inofanirakuwana SPF yakarongwauye zvinangwa zveUVA.
Aya masanganiswa anogona kuzoedzwa mukuumbwa. In-vitro SPF uye UVA nzira dzekuyedza dzinobatsira panguva ino kuratidza kuti ndeupi musanganiswa unopa zvakanakisa mhedzisiro maererano nekuita - rumwe ruzivo nezve mashandisiro, dudziro uye zvipimo zvebvunzo idzi zvinogona kuunganidzwa neSpecialChem e-training kosi:UVA / SPF: Kugadzirisa yako Test Protocols
Mhedzisiro yebvunzo, pamwe nemhedzisiro yezvimwe zviedzo uye ongororo (semuenzaniso kugadzikana, kuchengetedza kushanda zvakanaka, kunzwa kweganda), inogonesa mugadziri kuti asarudze yakanakisa sarudzo (s) uye zvakare kutungamira kuenderera mberi kwekugadzira (s).
Nguva yekutumira: Jan-03-2021